The irresistible aroma of biryani, with its fragrant and succulent meat infused with spices makes our mouths water and is a f avourite for all of us. Bengalis are especially known to love this dish. Biryani – with its rich flavours and enticing aroma – holds a special place in our hearts. There are many varieties of biryani, each with its unique flavours and preparation style. The Hyderabadi biryani in known for its bold spices and aromatic basmati rice; Awadhi biryani from Lucknow is more subtle and fragrant – often cooked with a yoghurt-based marination; and Kolkata biryani with its distinctive use of potatoes and touch of sweetness stands out as a Bengali favourite. Each type brings its own charm and taste. It is said that Nawab Wajid Ali Shah who was the last Nawab of Awadh, brought biryani to Kolkata when he was exiled here in the mid 19th century. The Kolkata biryani evolved from the Lucknowi style he introduced, but with a unique twist – by adding potatoes.
It is said that it was a creative addition of his chefs because they faced the scarcity of meat at the time. But there are differing opinions about the story. While the popular narrative credits Nawab Wajid Ali Shah’s exile to Kolkata and the scarcity of meat as the reason for adding potatoes to biryani, some food historians argue that this isn’t entirely accurate.
One theory suggests that the inclusion of potatoes was more about adding a new flavour and texture rather than a necessity. Potatoes were considered a delicacy and a status symbol among the elite during the 19th century as they were relatively new in India. Adding them to biryani could have been a way to elevate the dish further, reflecting the fusion of Mughal and Bengali culinary tradition. The rulers of Awadh were known for their love for food and their experimentations with it. Potatoes and chillies were introduced in India in the 16th century. These crops were originally from America and were brought to India by Portuguese traders who played a significant role in introducing new food items to the subcontinent during the 16th century.
When potatoes are cooked with saffron, spices and meat, they absorb all the rich flavours, making them incredibly delicious. In Kolkata biryani, the potatoes are often parboiled, then fried before being cooked with the rice and spices. This process allows the potatoes to soak up the aromatic flavours and other spices creating a ‘melt in the mouth’ texture which complements the meat perfectly.
It is said that when this new recipe was served to Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, he loved it. He’d ordered that henceforth whenever his chefs would cook biriyani, to make sure that the potato was added. It’s been centuries since this experimentation was made but it still stands as one of the most popular variations of the dish to this day.
Photo Credits: Wikimedia Commons and Bong Eats
